I went to Iraq as a civilian artist because I felt compelled to go. I wasn’t strongly anti-war and certainly wasn’t making protest art. I wanted to see what a war zone was like and make drawings and paintings based on my direct experiences.

I’ve made five trips between 2003 and 2007, totaling about a year, half of it spent with American military units. Through 2004 I lived in hotels and apartments in Baghdad’s Karada district. I made friends with a bunch of Iraqi artists and poets and they showed me around their city, the art galleries, restaurants and tea houses where they liked to hang out. I used to take the bus down to my friend Ahmed’s studio near the Bab Sherji marketplace in the morning.

I’d yell, “Nasr!” when I wanted to get off until I found out I was mispronouncing the word and shouting “Victory!” which must have surprised and irritated the other passengers.

Then I’d bring up fresh bread and gaymar (Iraqi cream cheese) for breakfast and Ahmed and I would paint all day.

Steve Mumford
New York City
May 8, 2007